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Chef Marcus Jernmark cut his teeth inside fine-dining temples like Per Se, Aquavit and Stockholm’s Frantzén. But when it came time to open his first restaurant in Los Angeles last year, he wanted to do things a little differently. He opened Lielle as a four-course $150 prix fixe. And then, very recently, he just debuted Marée in the space directly above it, an à la carte ode to French bistro cuisine with a California twist (and an already-famous au poivre burger). So why the pivot away from the pricey, lengthy tasting menus he’s been doing much of his career? His POV is that fine-dining doesn’t need to be for a special occasion (i.e., once a year or once in a lifetime); it can happen on a random Tuesday night. We chatted with him about what went into pricing both concepts.
—Interview by Kelly Dobkin, edited by Bianca Prieto
(Photo credit: Andrea Jernmark)
After helming many pricier tasting-menu restaurants in your career, you’ve chosen to price Lielle’s menu at $150, which is relatively accessible for a tasting-menu experience in L.A. What was behind that decision, and what did you want the price point to communicate about who this restaurant is for?
Every chef wants to make a meaningful impact while setting their business up for long-term success. The reasoning behind Lielle’s price point is simple: Los Angeles needs a fine-dining restaurant that fits any occasion. I didn't want this to be a place reserved exclusively for major milestones; it should be just as accessible for someone who simply wants to go out for a great dinner on a Tuesday night. The price point is designed to communicate that we are an inclusive, welcoming space built around great hospitality, rather than an ultra-exclusive venue meant only for rare celebrations.
Do you think there’s an opportunity for more fine-dining restaurants to rethink the traditional price point for tasting menus, especially as diners become more selective about where they spend their money? Has the moment shifted towards more affordable fine dining in your view?
Operating in Los Angeles is likely one of the hardest places on the planet to run a restaurant right now. As much as I wish the landscape here were easier, I have to work with the reality in front of me. In L.A. these days, managing volume and keeping costs in check is the absolute best way to build momentum for a business. I am absolutely convinced that there are already multiple successful restaurants looking closely at this specific price point, analyzing how a shorter, more focused format could help them operate more efficiently. The market has definitely shifted, and the restaurants that adapt to what diners actually need right now are the ones that will thrive.
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You recently opened Marée, which is a more casual à la carte style menu. How will this offer balance Lielle, right beneath it?
Opening Marée directly above Lielle offers a natural extension to the overall guest experience. Just a few days into service, we are already seeing how beautifully they complement one another. Guests at Lielle aren't just coming to Marée for a standalone meal; they are dropping by for a drink before their reservation or heading upstairs afterward to wind down.
Both Lielle and Marée are spaces designed for adults who appreciate a lively atmosphere paired with great hospitality and high-quality cooking. They are wildly different concepts visually and structurally, but they share the exact same core purpose. Guests don't need to hop from one venue to another; they get two distinct experiences under a single roof. I feel that is exactly what a lot of Angelenos need right now — the ability to seamlessly extend their night out without the hassle of ordering an Uber or moving their car.
The Prep’s Take
Operators can use a lower-priced, more casual concept to broaden access to an established fine-dining restaurant while capturing different occasions under one roof. By offering distinct price points and experiences, the strategy can reach a wider customer base while encouraging guests to move between concepts and extend their time — and spending — on property.
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