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In its first year, Kabawa has quickly emerged as one of New York’s most talked-about new restaurants, earning recognition from both the James Beard Foundation and Bon Appétit. But for chef Paul Carmichael, the restaurant’s success is less about accolades than its larger mission: celebrating the breadth, vibrancy and hospitality of the Caribbean.
It’s also the Momofuku group’s first-ever departure from Asian cuisine, located in the former Ko space. Drawing on his upbringing in Barbados, decades of cooking around the world and deep New York roots, Carmichael has created a restaurant that invites guests to experience the Caribbean on its own terms.
—Interview by Kelly Dobkin, edited by Bianca Prieto
(Photo credit Andrew Bezek)
Kabawa has had a remarkable run of recognition in its first year, from being named semifinalist for Best New Restaurant at the JBF awards to landing on Bon Appétit’s Best New Restaurants list. Have all of the accolades changed the way you think about the restaurant?
It hasn’t changed how I think about it at all; we set out from the beginning to make a venue that was joyful and inviting and that clearly communicated the diversity and excellence throughout the Caribbean. It will always be a place that champions the region first. Above everything else, we will constantly strive to be better and aspire to serve as a beacon for Caribbean food and hospitality.
Photo credit: Adrianna Glaviano
Kabawa is deeply rooted in your upbringing in Barbados, but the menu also reflects your experiences cooking around the world and your life in New York. How has your understanding of Caribbean cuisine evolved over the course of your career, and what do you feel you’re able to express at Kabawa that you couldn’t before?
Kabawa is deeply rooted in the Caribbean region, but undeniably my upbringing has some influence. For a long time throughout my career, I was strongly focused on learning as much as I could within cooking and hospitality, then honing my skills to a fine point. I also spent a lot of time finding mentors and working with people who have a similar ethos to me about creation and learning with them. Because I spent all that time focused on cooking and hospitality, I had the confidence to allow food to take a bit of a backseat while developing the venue. That allowed me to focus on expressing the vibrancy of the Caribbean and really dive into the culture. It's the first time in my career I have had that opportunity.
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Kabawa is part of the Momofuku group, but it feels very distinct from the group’s Asian-focused history. What has it been like building a restaurant within the Momofuku ecosystem while creating something that is so specifically your own?
It has been phenomenal. I had some practice with my former restaurant in Seiōbo in Sydney, though. So coming to New York and having the freedom to build a venue was an extension of the work done since 2015. I've known Dave for over 20 years, and we have developed a relationship where he trusts me personally and trusts my vision. The company has traditionally been a chef-driven company, so it doesn't matter where the cuisine is from. Kabawa is a dream come true.
There’s a sense of celebration and hospitality at Kabawa that goes beyond what people might traditionally associate with fine dining—from the music and colorful mosaics to the choose-your-own prix fixe format. What were you trying to communicate through the overall experience, and why was that important to you?
I wanted to communicate that this is the life and the community of the Caribbean. People welcome you into their homes; people talk to each other; the culture is vivid and warm. The intention of Kabawa was not fine dining, but rather a place where you dine finely and dine well, allowing you to experience the Caribbean as it truly is: joyous, diverse and full of beauty. Everyone is welcome, whether they’re expecting fine dining or not.
The Prep’s Take
Kabawa shows restaurant owners that giving chefs the creative freedom to express their own vision and building an immersive, welcoming experience rooted in a culture’s hospitality can create a restaurant that feels both distinctive and deeply personal.
