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After decades cooking along the Gulf Coast, five James Beard Award nominations and countless Southern Grace Dinners, Bill Briand has built his career around seafood, hospitality and community. At little bird in Fairhope, Ala. (a town with a population of 26,000), the chef is bringing those threads together, putting his own spin on Gulf Coast classics while working closely with local farmers and purveyors.

We spoke with Briand about the evolution of his “seafood Southern soul food,” the relationships that shape his cooking and why a great restaurant experience goes far beyond what’s on the plate.

—Interview by Kelly Dobkin, edited by Bianca Prieto

(Photo credit OVM Agency)

You’ve described your cooking as “seafood Southern soul food.” How has your relationship with the Gulf Coast and its culinary traditions evolved over the course of your career, and how does that philosophy come through at little bird?

Our philosophy at little bird is to bring in the best-quality seafood that the Gulf has to offer. Hard work and determination to create great food come from the heart and soul, and I love the Gulf Coast and everything it has to offer. At little bird, we take traditional Gulf Coast seafood dishes, such as West Indies salad, crab claws and shrimp and grits, and put our own little bird spin on them.

(Photo credit OVM Agency)

You’ve built such a strong following around Southern Grace Dinners, which is as much about community and hospitality as it is about food. What have those dinners taught you about creating meaningful connections with diners and other chefs?

The connections we build with other chefs are so important to the growth of Southern food and the South as a whole. The restaurant business is constantly changing, and Southern Grace gives us an opportunity to talk about issues and trends in the industry while providing support and insight for one another. Even something as simple as discussing reservation platforms can lead to valuable conversations, because every chef has different experiences and perspectives.

Most importantly, our guests are what make these experiences so special. We can create the food and the ambience, but they bring the sparkle.

At little bird, you’ve emphasized relationships with local purveyors and farmers. What are some of those relationships that have become particularly important to the restaurant, and how do they shape what ends up on the menu?

As a seafood restaurant, raw oysters are a big part of our menu, and we have a great relationship with the Zirlott family of Sweet Grown Alabama. I’ve been serving their Murder Point oysters on my menus throughout my entire tenure on the Gulf Coast!

We also have the luxury of having an on-site farmer, Dominique Kline, who provides us with incredible produce as well as inspiration for our dishes. Dominique’s produce also finds its way creatively into our dishes. We roast oyster mushrooms from the farm to serve with our swordfish; the mushrooms work so well with the au poivre sauce. Dominique also grows chilis that we bottle with vinegar and now use on our collard greens.

These relationships allow us to stay connected to the land and let what’s being grown around us help shape what we put on the plate.

After years of accolades—including five consecutive James Beard nominations—what feels different about this chapter of your career, and what are you most excited to explore at little bird?

What feels different about this chapter is that I’m able to show our guests the experiences and influences that helped me become the chef I am today. At little bird, you will always receive the best quality of food and experience, but I’ve also come to understand that every aspect of a restaurant contributes to the overall experience for the guest.

The story, service, drinks, décor and all the details matter just as much as the food on the plate. I’m excited to continue exploring that complete experience at little bird and sharing it with our guests.

The Prep’s Take

Briand’s career illustrates how restaurants can build lasting relevance by combining a strong sense of place with genuine relationships, allowing food, hospitality, local sourcing and community to become part of one cohesive experience.

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